Buzzin’ for Bass

If you are anything like me, you live for the action packed, heavy hitting, bone jarring topwater explosion produced when you throw a topwater bait. As far as I am concerned, it is incredibly exiting to watch the water splash upwards and the opportunity to see that lunker bass flash and slam into your bait! Getting a bass to take surface baits requires you to get their attention. Out of all the topwater baits on the market, few, if any, come close to creating as much surface disturbance as does the buzzbait. To a prowling hungry bass, this unique sputtering, splashing and gurgling noise that is created by a buzzbait is extremely hard to resist. I would like to educate and provide you with an understanding of the buzzbait so you can also enjoy the success of this awesome and versatile lure.

The buzzbait is designed specifically for surface fishing and lacks some of the versatility that it’s cousin, the spinnerbait possesses. Nevertheless I have found that many times a buzzbait is often more effective than a spinnerbait when fishing over grassy, weedy areas, or visible timber. Why? First of all it is less likely to become fouled in the grass or weeds. Second, in stained water or thick vegetation, the sound created by a buzzbait not only alerts bass to its presence but it allows them to locate, track, and acquire the bait much faster. Third, there is something special about the way a buzzbait will ignite the predatory instincts of a bass. A buzzbait will work best in calmer waters, however I often use one when there is a slight surface chop on the water. Although, too much wave action will erase the disturbance action caused by the buzzbait, so let your common sense take over in this situation.

When the surface temperature of the water is in the 60-degree range and the aforementioned water conditions are in alignment, I will throw a buzzbait just about anytime. Buzzbaits are typically thrown when the sky is overcast or when you are in a low light condition. Most people use the bait early in the morning or late in the evening. Keep in mind, this is simply a theory and you can throw a buzzbait anytime of the day. Buzzbaits are very effective when thrown into thick or heavy grass cover during warm or hot weather. You just might be surprised by how effective a buzzbait is at drawing bass out of the densest grass or surface matting. This versatile lure is great for locating bass. They will cast far and can be retrieved faster than most topwater baits. This will allow you to cover a lot more water in a shorter period of time. Considering that a buzzbait has a single hook that is usually offset, this will allow the bait to be fished in all types of cover no matter how dense it might be. This really adds to the locator ability of the bait as well.

I think that the biggest disadvantage of the buzzbait is the fact that bass will often completely miss the bait or strike it short. Some newer buzzbait manufacturers have helped to greatly increase the hook-up ratio by off-setting the weighted head and hook from the wire which runs the head and hook a bit deeper in the water than conventional buzzbaits. You can also buy single trailer hooks that will ad percentages to your hook-up rate. For this addition, I would recommend the Gamakatsu trailer hook. One other issue with the buzzbait occurs when you fish the bait in very dense cover. Bass sometimes have problems catching the bait. You might have to slow your retrieve a bit when fishing in these conditions. There is almost nothing as disturbing as when you see that water part and you get that huge powerful hit on your bait only to discover there is not a fish on the hook! With that being said, you must also be extremely careful not to set the hook to soon. This action will basically pull the bait right out of the mouth of the fish.

I view the procedure for an effective hookset with the buzzbait almost the same as a hookset with a Senko style worm. As with all topwater baits, you need to try and delay or hold back on the hookset a bit. I wait until I actually feel the fish take to bait. A good rule of thumb is to always set the hook by feel, not by sight or sound. The faster the fish hits the bait, the longer I wait. Many times a bass will hit the bait when they are cruising along at a high rate of speed and miss the hook entirely. They will often come back around and take another swipe at the bait if you keep your retrieve steady and slow the speed down a bit to make them think they possibly injured the bait. You can really up your odds if you have the buzzbait coated with a great scent as well. If the bass gets a taste of the scent, they are much more likely to come back for seconds.

Buzzbaits come in several sizes, but the most popular are the 1/4oz and the 1/2oz. Some buzzbaits have a clacker built in to make them louder. Blades come in all different sizes as well as shapes. One trick I learned several years ago is to take a 1/8″ drill bit and drill about 4 or 5 holes on all sides of the blades. This will force water through the blade holes and cause the water to bubble up. This will make the fish, which is looking at the bait from an underwater perspective, think that there is really something big going on near the surface. Buzzbaits are also available in one, two, three and even four blade models. The more blades a bait possesses, the louder they are.

When it comes to retrieving the bait, I like to retrieve just fast enough to keep the bait up on the water surface. If I do not get a reaction using this presentation, I then increase the speed until I get a reaction. There are times when I am “burning” the bait at full reel speed to get a bite. You might also try an erratic type of retrieve such as a fast-slow-fast or a slow-fast-slow system. You will always be a successful fisherman if you will just think your presentations out and give the fish what they want. Go ahead and experiment a little, as there really is not a “right” way to retrieve this lure. As far as colors go, you must experiment. If you have experienced success on a certain color of spinnerbait, I would try a duplicate that same color on a buzzbait. My favorite color of buzzbait is junebug or white/chartreuse with light blue.

I prefer using a baitcasting outfit when bass fishing, but when presenting a buzzbait, a spinning outfit is easier to use. I use a 7′ spinning rod with a medium heavy action and a fast tip. If I use a casting rod, I use a 7′ fast tip rod as well. My favorite rods for buzzin’ are the St. Croix Avid and the Kistler Helium. If you prefer a heavy rod, you might consider the G.Loomis MBR844C GLX. The reason it is easier to use a spinning outfit is because when you cast the buzzbait out, you must engage the reel just before the bait hits the water. This will help to pull out any slack in the line and prepare you to begin your retrieve immediately. This action is much quicker if you have a bail on a spinning reel to shut quickly. Be sure to keep your rod tip up, as this will help you to keep the bait running on the surface. Be sure not to lift the rod up too high, as this could cause you to miss a strike as the bait could lift from the surface. Go out and try a little buzzin’ and I am sure you will fall in love, when that “lunker” violently strikes your buzzbait!

G. Wayne Byrd is a professional bass tournament fisherman, who loves to teach others how to catch more and bigger fish. He is an active contributor to Fishin’ Secrets with Eric Allee and Friends.

http://www.fishinsecrets.com

Tips in Running a Bass Fishing Boat

This interesting article addresses some of the key issues regarding Running a Bass Fishing Boat. A careful reading of this material could make a big difference in how you think about Running a Bass Fishing Boat properly and safely.

Sometimes the most important aspects of a subject are not immediately obvious. Keep reading to get the complete picture.

Bass fishing is the second most sought after sport in U.S. Indulging in this kind of sport is really fun and entertaining. Before, bass fishing is normally done for food purposes, but it turned out to be a sport in later years.

If want to become an angler, you need to provide yourself with equipments essential to bass fishing. One of the things you need is a bass fishing boat. How can you choose the best bass fishing boat?

In this article, you will learn how to run a bass fishing boat. In fact if you are new to the sport you need to follow some tips on how are you going to run the boat with safety precautions.

Many people enjoy bass fishing boats. This is a fact that boating amuses most of the people. However, you need to learn some important tips about safe boating. It is important to operate your boat with safety and security.

Guidelines for safety boating:

• Do not use an outboard that overpowers your boat. Always use power that your boat is rated.

• Undergo education about safe boating. If your area offers course about it you can take it and pass it.

• Make use that your visibility is not distracted. You can lower down the pedestal seats most especially the front area. While the boat is moving, do not allow anybody to use the pedestal seat.

• Let your passengers wear the personal floatation devices and all the needed devices for safety, approved by the Coast Guard.

• Secure all the items before boating, especially safety clothing and devices.

• Before you run the boat, check the emergency engine cut-off switch. This device is attached to passengers while the boat is running.

• Do not drink while running a boat.

• Remember that you take responsibilities for your passengers, so, never hot-dogs your boat.

• Common courtesy must be exercise in the boat. Never run your boat to other boats or anglers. Always be aware and take extra precautions on areas where no-wake zones are posted.

• You must be watchful to be you are going.

Tips on launching:

• Before trying to launch your boat, find a place where there is no much traffic. Never block the ramp. Make sure that the engine is tilted. This can assure you of sufficient clearance. Also, check if the jackets are aboard, the plug is secured and the entire tie down has been removed. Keep the bow rope attached before you are close to water.

• Go slowly at the ramp when your boat is secured. Make sure that the path is safe. Letting a person stand on the ramp is also a good suggestion.

• If you are alone, make sure that you have secured the entire things to be secure before you go out of the boat.

• If you have company, let him watch over for your safety while you secure the necessary things to be kept inside the boat.

• Repeat the procedures when loading the boat again and never ever block the ramp.

These are the things you need to remember when you are running a bass boat. Be aware of these things for your safety and security. Always remember to put safety first before anything else.

Don’t limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about Bass Fishing Boat. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what’s important.

Puneet Singhal is a seasoned bass fisherman who is always on the lookout for the new tricks and techniques to catch more fishes each time he go for fishing.

For more information, related articles and resources on bass fishing please visit http://www.bassfishing-center.com

How to Catch More Crappies than You Want

Crappies are one of the best tasting fish I have ever eaten, I like them better then trout. The meat is pure white and is firm and full of good mellow flavour. Crappies are a panfish, similar to bluegill and sunfish. When I was a young man, a lot of local fishermen called crappie, ‘ calico bass ‘. Luckily for us fishermen they are considered a panfish and are not restricted in most areas, like other bass are when it comes to fishing laws. Here in Pennsylvania we are allowed to catch 50 crappies a day with no size limitations.

Crappies are ‘little hellions,’ they are full of energy and despite their small size they can make a normal fishing rod bend to the breaking point and cause a reels drag to become active, the energy and taste are two reasons why crappies are such a great fish to catch.

Crappies come in two types or varieties, there are black crappies and white crappies. Crappies live throughout the U.S in many ponds, lakes and streams, I guess if other panfish or even bass can thrive in the water, then crappie can also. Crappie look similar in size and shape to other panfish, except they are a lot more silver colored, with black spots, and they have upturned noses. They are actually a very nice looking fish, and the silver or shiny color shimmers in the sunlight.

Crappies can be caught year around. In the spring and fall months they move near the shore areas, and in the summer they move out in more deeper and cooler water. They are probably the most active in the early spring months when they move towards the shores to spawn, they become very aggressive and tend to bite and attack anything that is cast or moves near them or the nest, making it pretty easy to get a stringer full of crappies in a short time in the spring season. The nests look like hollowed out depressions or dishes in the mud or gravel on the bottoms of the ponds and lakes. If you walk slowly around the edges of the water, you can see these nests and often see the crappie in and near them. Once you spot one of the nests, casting your bait near it will usually produce a quick strike.

In the summer or warmer months, they often hang around stumps, trees, and other debris areas and underwater structures for shading and protection. Casting near these areas in the summer and warmer months will often be very productive for catching a mess of crappie. In the fall time of the year, they move towards the shores and become more aggressive again in their feeding and biting. This aggressive feeding and biting continues throughout the cold winter months, which makes crappie a great fish to catch while ice fishing in the winter.

The best time to catch crappies is during the daylight hours, with early morning after sunrise and in the late afternoon towards early evening hours being the best times. Crappies love minnows with a passion, and when it comes to live baits there is no better choice than a small minnow. If you don’t have or cannot get live minnows, then use jigs or any such lure that looks as realistic as possible to a live minnow. But when you use an artificial minnow make sure you keep the lure pretty active, so it simulates a live minnow as much as possible, if the fake minnow just sits still, crappie have been known to look and then just pass by, they seem to prefer live minnows and bait instead of dead ones. Crappies have a abnormally soft mouth, so be aware that if you jerk your rod too hard, to set the hook, you can rip it right out of the crappies mouth, resulting in losing the fish.

There is Computer Software that is made for crappie fishing as well as catching any type of fish. After keeping a few past records of fishing trips, this software will help you to easily calculate what days will be a great fishing day! The software is called: ‘Fishing Buddy,’ you can download and try the software for free from this website address:

http://www.rb59.com/fishingb

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter or on your website as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released software on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970’s-80’s.

RB59 Software
http://www.rb59.com/software

Importance of Artificial Light While Swordfishing

The use of light, either chemical or battery powered plays an important role in catching swordfish. There is no question that the use of artificial light increases the probability of catching a swordfish.

Swordfish have giant pupils, about the size of a racquet ball which makes them extremely sensitive to light. Swordfish are designed to be able to see in extremely low light conditions, this is why they are efficient hunters is the deep depths of the ocean.

Putting a light on your line while swordfishing acts as an artificial magnifier to make your bait spread seem larger then it is and the light attracts attention from both swordfish and bait schools in the area.

Each color of light in the spectrum we use has different qualities. For example, each color of light has a different quality of brightness and water penetration. Water penetration means, how far of a distance the color of light can travel through water before it disappears. The colors in the spectrum which disappear are, from first to last, Red, Green, Blue, and Purple.

Now, when placing your artificial light onto your fishing line you want the light to be far enough away that your bait will be sitting right outside the lights brightest sphere in the shadow line. In terms of what light color is the best depends on any given night, as swordfish seem to have patterned bites based on light color as well as depth. Although, there is a much higher probability for bites on the colors blue and green.

When the moon is full and there is a lot of light penetrating the water column the light on your shallow baits will be diminished due to the large amount of natural light penetrating the water.

Captain Vinnie La Sorsa
Swordfishing & OffShore Charters.

http://www.GoodFellasCharters.com

We Can Put A Fish On The Moon

This aint exactly rocket scientry boys…

I picked up a copy of The Oregonian this morning and read a story about how the ocean conditions this year are killing off seabirds in record numbers. Murres and cormorants are washing up on shore like pieces of Northwestern forest driftwood, mainly due to starvation.

Most biologists are blaming a lack of cooling ocean winds which are causing warmer Pacific ocean temperatures, which are causing a lack of phytoplankton production, (which then need to stirred up from the ocean bottom by the wind),which are causing Anchovys and Sardines to die, which are causing the birds to go without food…….which is causing the birds to die!

Whew.

Scientists seem to have a pretty good grasp on this theory, and even though solution wise,they are pretty much held at the mercy of Mother Nature, the explanation still makes perfect sense.

Of course, any discussion of warming of anything on this planet wouldn’t be complete–without the blaming of global warming. Which of course has been blamed for everything short of the scalding temperatures of McDonalds coffee.

The Oregonian’s article mentioned global warming on several occasions, and biologists and scientists would not rule this out as a possible contributing factor in the changing oceanic conditions this summer.

Enter the Coho.

Biologists have also recorded fewer catches of Coho Salmon on the Oregon coast with numbers down from 44,000 fish last year to about 5700 this year. Marine biologists have also stated that the size of the fish has generally been smaller, again, with one theory being that there is less food for the Coho to feed on–therefore less growth. Where the fish are or where they have gone is a complete mystery. As one wildlife biologist said ” it is a big ocean nobody really knows”.

O.K., this is where I get confused.

We have the ocean– which past history has told us is affected greatly by currents and temperature.

We have this great big giant gaping hole in our ozone-which nobody can agree on how to check or what the cause and effect is from it. Or how to fix it.

We have a space shuttle which we can determine has a small yet dangerous crack in it’s insulation–millions of miles out in space. Yet we have the ability to repair it.

We literally have the technolology to put a fish on the moon….

…But we can’t figure out where thousands of Salmon migrate to- right here on our home planet??

“It’s a big ocean nobody really knows.”

Now forgive my feeble mind for working this way, but I am thinking that this great mystery of where fish travel and where they wind up –is really something that we can control and find out.

Maybe we can tie a string to their fins and follow the string to their whereabouts? Or, perhaps we can hire a “private scuba investigator” (scuba Dick??) to put a tail on them–maybe take a few photos of them?? Have they fallen into the Marianas trench? What if they are just “vacationing” in Iceland until the waters get cooler?
When I get hot during the summer–I go where it is cooler!

Again, we have no clear idea why or where the fish are disappearing–but we are pretty certain that global warming is causing it.!!??!!??

You can’t tell me that putting “chips” or some other sort of “homing” device into schools of migrating fish,especially since most fish start out in the controlled environments of fish hatcherys, is not a “doable” project.If there is enough cause for concern, and enough reason to throw billions of dollars at studying ozone layers, and studying why Coho are diminishing–after the fact– then there certainly is reason enough to do it before hand.

I for one would gladly pay .50 cents more on my fishing license to help pay for 10,000 or so chips and a few monitoring devices. AND you can’t tell me that the Oregon sportfishing, boat building,commercial fishing industry, and tourism industry don’t have a vested interest in protecting fish and finding out more about their migration habits. No fish–no fishermen–no money spent.

Heck, put ‘em in all the fish –then you will know exactly when the fish are caught,where they go to spawn, and how long Uncle Bill has been keeping that Salmon in his freezer.

As far as the ozone is concerned, I think we all have a vested interest in that study.

Let’s learn about our own planet before we check out the cause and effect of weightlessness on a can of Coca-Cola!!

I can see it now: New from Coca- Cola… “Coke ultralight… all the taste with none of the weight”…

I am not saying that space exploration is not viable and important, and I am certainly convinced that one day, much like the discovery of any new frontier,people will inhabit some place in space. HOWEVER, I think it a little premature to abandon Earth and pack up the old intergalactic covered wagons.

So, it seems when it comes to ozones and fish migration and what goes on in the “deep blue sea”–we ought to know just as much as we know about a crack in a space shuttles insulation!!

What do you think?

In the meantime, I’ll be outside cooking my breakfast on the hood of my car–because MAN it’s hot out…

….damn global warming!

A.J. Klott

Author, writer of fishing humor,and “fly tack” peddler.A.J. writes about the people,characters and modern day events that surround the fishing world. His first book is due out in December of 2005.

If you need a laugh or a fun gift, visit his website at: http://www.twoguyswithflys.com

Georgia Bass Fishing: A Bass Anglers Adventure

Bass fishing has suddenly become one of the most popular sports in town. Almost everyone is talking about it that you can’t resist not asking about it and trying it for yourself as well.

It may be the promise of fun and excitement of bass fishing that keeps many people hooked on it. There are also countless television shows today that concentrate on bass fishing a lot that is why you can’t help learning more things about it.

Learning about it is enjoyable and you can hire a guide to help you catch fish, as well as teach you about catching them, then later on you’re going to develop your own ideas and formulate theories on having the best fish.

There’s a lot of bass clubs where you can join in and numerous fishing tournaments that you can try. Lots of money awaits you especially in joining prestigious tournaments where a big deal of money is at stake.

Several states are now “hooked” and “addicted” to bass fishing and Georgia is considered to be among the best in the world in terms of this newly-found sport.

Catching a spotted bass (also called “spots”) which is about 4 pounds can already be considered to be a trophy since the average one weighs about only a pound, though spots of this kind is really that unusual in the deep waters of Georgia. Bass of this kind are often inhabiting deep and clear waters.

Spotted bass are strong fighters, and many anglers feel that spots are the most spirited black bass species. Although spotted bass do not grow as big as largemouths and are not as acrobatic as smallmouths, a good spotted bass on the end of the line gives you a fight to remember.

Lake Lanier would probably be the first thing that would come to mind when one speaks of Georgia spotted bass. In 1985, Lake Lanier was able to spot an 8 pounds, ½ ounce spotted bass. This has set a state-record in Georgia but continued to have contenders since then.

Spotted bass are common in central and North Georgia in areas drained by the Coosa, Chattahoochee and Savannah River systems. But there are still some notable exceptions.

In addition to that, spots are currently making up about 25 percent of the black bass population in Lake Jackson, and their prevalence is increasing. The first spotted bass found in biologists’ shocking surveys didn’t show up until 1998, so their numbers have increased quite quickly. Spotted bass only average 9 or 10 inches in length in this site. Something like 15 percent of the spotted bass in the lake are more than 15 inches long.

At first glance, spotted bass are almost impossible to differentiate from largemouths. Spotted bass usually have a sandpaper-like tooth patch on the tongue, which the latter lack. Also, the rear of the jaw does not extend behind the eye as it does in largemouths, and lastly, the spiny and soft dorsal fins are connected with a shallow notch not reaching all the way to the body.

Largemouths weighs between ¾ pound and 1 pound, but about half the bass in the population are more than 15 inches long. While the real giants are less common than they once were, the population is well balanced and fish in a good range of sizes are well represented.

In Middle Georgia, Lake Jackson is well thought-out to be one of the oldest reservoirs. The lake is an outstanding trophy bass lake. Over the years, its waters have produced countless double-digit-weight largemouths, and the lake record stands at 14 pounds, 7 ounces.

Lake Jackson lead away the waters of the Alcovy, South and Yellow rivers where they join at the head of the Ocmulgee River and is located about 45 miles southeast of Atlanta. It is no longer the trophy bass factory that it once was. Nevertheless, it remains a great place for finding good fishing for decent-sized largemouths, with a few spotted bass thrown in as a bonus. It also remains as one among the known lakes in the central part of the state, both because of its proximity to the Atlanta metropolitan area and because of its time-earned angling reputation.

In not more than 30 miles from Lake Jackson, there situated another lake known to be Oconee, which has also gained recognition and had become a favored destination of fishermen especially from the Atlanta area, and similarly serves up fast black bass action.

Georgia has really a lot to offer when it comes to bass fishing so better check it out yourself if you want to experience the beauty and fascination of being involved with bass fishing.

For a free course on bass fishing, download our bass fishing report at www.bassfishingsystem.com/ today.

The Sublime Pleasure of Fly Fishing

Fly fishing has a history stretching back to the ancient Greeks, whose historians record people fishing for “spotted fishes” with fixed-line wooden poles. They used for bait wound with cloth and animal hair –primitive fishing flies. More than 2,000 years later, people still fly fish, and they’re still catching those “spotted fishes” and many other types besides. Fishing venues have expanded to include lakes, rivers, and even the ocean. With a continual flow of new adherents and constant technological advancement, fly fishing is likely to go strong as long as there are still fishes out there to catch.

Flyfishing gear

These days, our fishing flies either come ready-made or we make them ourselves; we’ve got all kinds of specialized tools and fishing clothing with which we pursue our art; and our fly rods are made of graphite, with nifty fly fishing reels designed to extend our reach well beyond a few feet. Taken together, these comprise a serious fisherman’s basic fly fishing gear. You’re also likely to need additional fishing equipment like supplies and tackle, and even fishing apparel like mesh vests and waders. If you’re making your own flies, that opens up a whole other can of worms, involving the specialty materials and tools required for making decent flies. Finally, if you’re fishing deep water, you’ll need to take a look at fishing boats too.

Stalking your fishy prey

Any veteran fly fisherman knows that fishing is less about putting fish on the table and more about being comfortable with Mother Nature. There you are: suited up in vest and waders, creel at your side, tackle safely tucked away. You’ve selected the perfect flies, and you’re fly rod is ready for action. Now you’re ready to slip into nature’s timeless waters, where the trout (or tarpon or sunfish or bonefish) await. If you don’t catch any fish, that’s all right – you’ve had an opportunity to enjoy alone time with yourself, to ejoy nature, and to practice your casting. And that’s what it’s all about.

Ivan Goertzen is a web publisher. He has websites in various industries that serve as informational resources to those that view them. To find out more information about Fly Fishing. Please go to: http://www.fly-fishing-source.com and check it out.

Rock Fishing Techniques

Many shore anglers avoid fishing rock marks because they are scared of losing tackle. However, very few marks are totally unfishable, and often the most effective rigs for fishing rough ground marks are also the most basic.

Before fishing any shore mark, rough ground marks in particular, it is a good idea to visit the area at low water. The best time to go is at low water on a spring tide, when much of the ground that you will later be fishing over will be uncovered. Look for features like gullies, weed beds, or patches of sand sandwiched between kelp beds. These are the places where items of food collect, and the places where the fish will feed once the tide has flooded. If you are unfamiliar with the mark, it is also very important to try to pick out any area where the flooding tide could cut off your retreat.

The first stumbling block for many anglers preparing to tackle a rough-ground mark is the choice of end rig. End rigs should be tied as simply as possible. Rock marks are certainly not the places to use complex rigs with lots of swivels, bait-clips and beads, all of which will increase the rig’s snagging potential. Rigs should usually incorporate some sort of rotten bottom to attach the lead (try using an old spark plug) as this will break free if it becomes snagged. A simple running paternoster is an ideal rig. You seldom need to fish at any distance and at some marks species like wrasse can be more or less under your feet. If long-range fishing is necessary, it is important to ensure that the lead will not break away from the rotten bottom during casting. One of the easiest ways to do this is to use a pulley rig tied from a minimum 501b bs line with a loop at the bottom. The rotten bottom attaches the lead to the loop, and the loop is then pushed through the eye of the lead. A small nail pushed through a ‘/4in diameter polyball is then inserted through the loop of nylon, to hold it secure during casting. On contact with the water, the nail floats free, aided by the buoyant polyball, leaving the rig anchored by the rotten bottom. The addition of a lead lift can further assist end-rig recovery over rough ground.

Many anglers make the mistake of using too light a main line when fishing rough ground. You should expect to get snagged on the bottom from time to time, and you will need a fairly substantial main line to break even an 8lb rotten bottom. It is also inevitable that your line will get chaffed from constant contact with rocks, and chaffed 251b line will give you a far better chance of landing a big fish than damaged 151b line.
Too light a lead is another common mistake. A light lead will get washed around by the tide or swell until it snags. It is far better to use a heavier lead, which will hit the bottom and stay put. If there is any lateral tide or swell consider using a grip lead, which will anchor your end rig firmly, preventing it from dragging into snags. The grip wires can even prevent the lead falling into tight crevices.

Another very common mistake is moving the lead after it has touched bottom, just to see if it has snagged. If the lead was not snagged, there is a good chance that you’ll drag it into a snag when moving it. The first time that you attempt to move the end rig should be either when you strike or when you reel in to check your bait. In the latter case, lift the rig as high in the water as you can with one firm upward swoop of the rod. Then, keeping your rod tip high, wind furiously to get the rig up to the surface and clear of the worst of the snags. The new generation of high-speed-retrieve reels are better suited for this sort of work than small, baitcasting multipliers.

Webmasters are free to re-publish the article as long as they include my resource box at the end of the article exactly.

Article by Darren Tidmarsh. For more articles on Sea Fishing and Fishing in general please visit Fishing-Circle.com
you can contact me at Darren@fishing-circle.com

Swordfish and Swordfishing

Generally an oceanic species, the swordfish is primarily a midwater fish at depths of 650-1970 feet (200-600 m) and water temperatures of 64 to 71°F (18-22°C). Although mainly a warm-water species, the swordfish has the widest temperature tolerance of any billfish, and can be found in waters from 41-80°F (5-27°C). The swordfish is commonly observed in surface waters, although it is believed to swim to depths of 2,100 feet (650 m) or greater, where the water temperature may be just above freezing. One adaptation that allows for swimming in such cold water is the presence of a “brain heater,” a large bundle of tissue associated with one of the eye muscles, which insulates and warms the brain. Blood is supplied to the tissue through a specialized vascular heat exchanger, similar to the counter current exchange found in some tunas. This helps prevent rapid cooling and damage to the brain as a result of extreme vertical movements.

As opportunistic predators, swordfish feed at the surface as well as the bottom of their depth range (>2,100 ft (650 m)) as evidenced by their stomach contents. They feed mostly upon pelagic fishes, and occasionally squids and other cephalopods. At lower depths they feed upon demersal fishes. The sword is apparently used in obtaining prey, as squid and cuttlefishes commonly exhibit slashes to the body when taken from swordfish stomachs. A recent study found the majority of large fish prey had been slashed, while small prey items had been consumed whole. Larval swordfish feed on zooplankton including other fish larvae. Juveniles eat squid, fishes, and pelagic crustaceans.

Swordfishing has really seen a boon in the last few years. Boats departing form port up and down the Atlantic are experiencing a fish size of 75-100lb on average. South Florida is considered to be the swordfish nursery and anglers routinely catch “Pups”, but they also get their share of markers (fish with over 100 lbs dressed weight) and double markers.

Swordfishing

Once you are all gunned up and ready to go, it’s time to take a drift out in South Florida’s Gulf Stream or the Canyons of the Mid Atlantic or New England. We are going to be drifting using 4 to 6 lines. Depending on the size of your boat, the sea conditions, and your experience level, you may be able to fish 5 or even 6 rods, but 4 rods is a good starting point. This is an awesome fishery and we can sustain it as long as we don’t abuse it.

Locating The Swordfish Grounds

Swordfishing takes place in the evening and at night, as they are primarily nocturnal feeders. In South Florida, most boats leave the dock in the early evening hours and coming back to the dock after midnight. Boats fishing out of ports in the middle and north Atlantic states usually swordfish at night after spending the day trolling for tunas, mahis, and other fish. Swordfishing is obviously easier when it is calm, because everything is easier to do.

In South Florida, swordfish grounds are bordered generally between longitude 79-51W and 79-44W. This is roughly 15-22 miles off our coastline. In the Mid-Atlantic and North Canyons, with such a vast area to cover, most fishermen look for a good temperature break before fishing. Sonar that can read the bottom in 2000 feet is very beneficial; as you will see the canyons and structure that you are fishing and mark them on your chart plotter. These canyons create upwellings that hold plankton and other small marine creatures that baitfish such as tinker mackerel and sardines feed on, which in turn attracts highly migratory species such as swordfish. If you want to see fish and schools of bait, set your range to 100ft and you will see any bait congregated under your boat. Where you find the bait you will find the fish. Try dropping live bait or a stick bait straight off your rod tip right into that zone (as explained later).

Once you are satisfied with your location, you want to spend the next few minutes figuring out your drift. The direction and speed of your drift is the most important aspect of swordfishing. The direction of your drift dictates which area you are going to drift over. For example, if you have heard that the bite is red hot on the 79-50W line, you want to make sure you spending most of your drift on this line. The speed of the current and the direction and speed of the wind will also affect what size lead weight sinkers you need to use to keep your baits drifting at the desired depth. A sea anchor can work to keep your baits spread out and offset the effects of the wind on your spread. Put your sea anchor out somewhere forward of midship for the best spread.

Broadbill Tackle

Good bait is key to any fishing. Dead bait such as Boston mackerel stick rigged to drift or a nice squid on a pin rig work great. Live bait such as goggle-eyes, blue runners, speedos, tinker mackerel work well too. You should trim the tails down on the live bait to make them easier for the swords to catch, which help your hook ups.

Let’s discuss rigging your rods and reels. I use mostly 80 wides, but many of my friends use 130s after getting owned a few times by sea monsters. If you are fortunate to have a reel like an Accurate 50 with a twin drag system you could load it with over 700 yards of 150 hollow-core PowerPro braid and be able to fish their lighter rods for broadbills. Using 50s to me is not a great idea, but some people do it. You can catch a decent fish on a 50lb. reel, but when you get a nice one on, its nice to know you can have some line capacity and a drag capable of taking the heat. On most fish, fighting them between 12 and 16 pounds of drag is going to keep the hook in the fish. However, with such light drag, a large fish will be able to take a lot of line off the spool. Remember, the more line that comes off the spool, the more drag is on the fish. If you have your drag set at 16 pounds and have 400 yards of line out, you may have 25 pounds of pressure on the fish. It is very important to set your drag before you go out. Mark the drag settings on the reel with a piece of light colored electrical tape and a magic marker at each increment of the drag lever.

When you spool up, we recommend using 150 lb hollow core Power Pro as backing. On the reel we fish with, we load about 1100 yards of Power Pro as backing. This line can last an entire season, as it is less vulnerable to failure causing nicks from fish or other things (weeds, boat, etc) touching the line. Line capacity can be key to slugging it out with a large broadbill, as there is a great deal of current and deep water for the fish to sound. Power Pro’s low stretch mean it is more sensitive to broadbills whacks and its small diameter means it takes less weight to fish the desired depth. After loading on a full spool of Power Pro, I finish it off with at least 100 yards of 130lb mono as a top shot. This mono allows some stretch in the system, which gives a little cushion against pulled hooks.

When spooling the reels we suggest marking each reel at a given depth. We suggest you mark the line using a Dacron loop half hitched to your line using wax line. Mark the rod with a piece of tape on the butt and write the depth on it. This will enable you to easily drop your bait to the desired depth without having to count it every time you setup. It also lets you know which rod is at which depth and allows you to cover all depths. You will use this loop to tie the balloon or jug onto the line. Make another loop using just wax floss about 20 feet from the end of your line. This will be used to attach the weight. It is very important to make sure the loop does not slip!

Your first knot that will be used on your mainline is the popular bimini twist (about 5 ft). The knot acts as a shock absorber and is very beneficial to the rig. Attach a 300 lb wind on leader using a loop to loop connection and crimp on a nice swivel.

Make sure your roller guides are in good shape, and that all your hardware is tight. Make sure you have good rod holders with backing plates; our swivel rod holders are the best.

Rigging up

Lets discuss your rigs. We first start out by measuring 15 feet of 200lb – 400lb mono leader. On the top end we either crimp a loop using a piece of hard plastic chafe tube so that we can attach it to our ball bearing snap swivel or welded eye swivel. On the other end, crimp an 8/0 – 11/0 hook. Make sure the hook is very sharp, if not sharpen it using a file. You should be able to press it against your fingernail and make a nice scratch. Attach your rig to your rods ball bearing swivel.

If you are fishing live bait you should place a bridle on your hook. A bridle is a loop that is about 6 inches in diameter made out of rigging floss or extra Power Pro. Attach that bridle to the hook and you are set. Pull the loop through the bait’s eyes using a rigging needle and twist until the bridle is tight across the bait’s head, then loop the hook under the part of the bridle that is tight on the bait’s head. At the swivel top circle you want to also attach a flasher at your discretion. This helps to make your bait visible to the swordfish.

Now lets talk squid. A swordfish favorite is the squid. There are a number of ways to rig a dead squid, but the best method is to use what long line fishermen call a pin rig. A tag end or pin is used to keep the squid riding high on the hook by pinning the mantle. The rig leaves the hook exposed half way down the mantle. Make sure you size your hook to your squid. The larger the hook the more hook you will have exposed from the squid. With small enough hooks only a small part of the hook is exposed.

Get your LP electralume lights out turned on and ready. Rig some 16-32 ounce bank sinkers with rubber coated copper/telephone wire or a rubber band. Rig some balloons or jugs up. Tie a piece of wire or rubber band to the balloon or jug by wrapping it around above where your balloon knot is. If using telephone wire, wrap the line up away from the balloon, and finish it off clean so it does not pop the balloon. Attach a cyalume stick to the jug or balloon with a piece of electrical tape. Have the gaff or harpoon ready to be deployed as some days you may drop the baits right into the mouth of a hungry swordfish.

Letting out your Spread

Drifting for swordfish is very very effective. You should stagger you baits at 150, 200, and 300. Each of these lines should have a balloon. Work another one out off the rod tip Now that you have 4 rods that are ready to be deployed, lets get some lines in the water. Once you are satisfied with the direction and speed of your drift, get the first line out. As a general rule of thumb, get your longest lines out first, meaning in this case the 150 foot deep rod. Many top captains set out the first two lines with the boat in gear driving away from the lines having the mate attach the LP Electralume, weight, and balloon as the appropriate marks in the line pass by. This often results in a faster deployment and a better spread. Once the 2nd bait is out they shift into drifting position and work out the next two.

With the first rod, attach your rig, along with your flasher on the to the swivel. Next clip on your LP Electralume using the long line clip that comes with it about 25 feet up the line. If you don’t have an electric light, snap a cyalume stick on. When your wax loop for the sinker comes off the tip, attach the sinker to the wax loop using copper wire. Wrap the wire about 6 times and pull to ensure it breaks away. Put it back on and let your bait down to desired depth. The 150-foot market should appear pretty fast. Once the 150-foot marker on the line comes up, attach your jug or balloon to the Dacron or wax line loop using copper wire. You can attach the balloon or jug using telephone wire or a small rubber band. Again, test to make sure it breaks away when fish applies pressure. Let the float out about 100-150 yards from the boat.

Do the same to the second rod, but this time go to 200ft and let it out on the jug/balloon about 75 yards. Proceed with the 250 and 300-foot rods. Once you have the 4 lines out on the jugs, lets move to your tip rods. The tip rods are called tip rods because that is exactly what they are. You will see the tip of the rod bounce heavily when a sword is slashing the bait. These rods are being fished right at the boat at varying depths. We usual set these rods at 75-100 feet and 400 feet. These will be your most active rods, as they are in the direct light of the boat. You should be constantly reeling the two tip rods.

Now that you have 4 lines in the water, Turn off all boat lights and sit back and listen to your rods. Check all lines as needed. If you don’t have any action within 30 minutes to an hour, start by checking your tip rods. If the baits have been slashed than bring in your balloon/jug rods and re-bait.

You can also use the 4ft green Hydro Glow light is used to attract bait and fish to your boat. Make sure you put it on the opposite side of the boat that that lines are drifting on, to avoid direct light in your eyes. The light definitely doesn’t hurt. We have seen bait such as squid, mackerel, flying fish, and sardines swim through the light. I have also seen these fish come into spreader lights and I have seen them come up with no lights at all. But why not have the extra edge?

There he is!!!

If a balloon or jug comes off, or you hear the drag being taken out, or you see a fish surfacing, you want to jump on that rod fast. You should of have your drag set at practically nothing, just enough to keep line from coming off the reel. Increase the drag to an agreed upon setting (I use 16 pounds) and start cranking until you get tight on the fish. The hook should automatically set once the line is tight if your hook is sharp. It is always important to clear the sea anchor and the tip rods immediately, but sometimes if you are not getting dragged around you can leave a float line or two out in hopes for a double.

Hooked Up!

Monitor your drag carefully. Too little drag and even a small 80-pound sword may take an hour. Too much drag may cause the hook to rip from the soft mouths of these fish. Do not rush the fish. If you have a big fish on, and he starts dumping over 300 yards of line off the reel you should back the drag on the reel off to compensate for the weight of the line in the water.

Most people fight the fish out of the rod holder using a bent butt rod, but there are some lower back workout fanatics that like to fish it standup. If you want to fight it standup, you should use a harness a good fighting belt. Swordfish get in excess of 400lbs and sometimes you have to slug it out to get them in the boat.

Once the fish is at the boat, just reel take of the LP electralume and wind the swivel to the tip. This is why we also suggest using wind-on leaders. This will help avoid the dangers of hand-lining a big fish. Get ready with multiple gaffs or a harpoon and stick the fish right in the head. A swordfish has to be at least 47 inches from the fork of the tail to the tip of the lower jaw to keep, so make sure you have a measuring tape. So before hitting it with the gaff, you want to decide if you are keeping the fish or not. Always wear tough leather gloves, as the bill is very sharp.

Cleaning up (Read this article on dressing tuna and swordfish)

When you have the fish in the boat and after the high fives and pictures are taken, shorten him for easy storage and transport by sawing his bill off and cutting his head off. Once the head and gills are off, slice his belly from the anus to the collar and remove his guts. Then pack his cavity with ice to ensure the best quality steaks. Now get your lines out and do it again!

Fisherman’s Outfitter

Ultra Light Fishing - I Bet you Don’t Know What that is!

So you think you have done ultra-light fishing- I bet you haven’t. I say that because
of my trip to the World Championships of fishing in Coimbra, Portugal where I
learned the true meaning of ultralight. When I fished against 185 anglers from 37
different nations, I learned that ultralight meant line that is around 1/2 pound,
fishing a hook the size of an eyelash, using a bait the thickness of 2 eyelashes -
ultralight !

Ok, so you have not fished ultralight, I win the bet. When I fished in the World
Championships, I too thought a little 4′ ultralight with 4 lb. test or wow, 2 lb. test
was the stealth way to fish. This was quickly dispelled as I fished local competitions
with 1 lb. fishing line and until my trip to Portugal, that was pretty stealthy.

The competition in Portugal was vs. the top anglers in the world- guys that would
make our Bassmasters look like AmeteurMasters - (many of them). The fishing
competions there are intense with all 185 anglers lining the shores of this canal and
many using 42 foot poles with 1/2 lb. test line. The fish that were available to us
were pretty delicate feeders that eat very tiny organisms. Yes, there were larger fish
in the river, but those that were available in large numbers, were the smaller fish.

World-level competitions are 3 hours long and are fished from shore where anglers
attempt to fill their keep nets (live fish bags that go down into the water) with as
much weight as possible. One spot to fish from, catch as many fish as you can to
build your weight. If these anglers tried to go just for big fish, the results would be
bad for most.

When using ultralight hooks, we employed size 22 & size 24 hooks. Hook sizes get
smaller as the numbers go higher so to get an idea of how small this hook is- find
your largest eyelash. The hooks we used were a very thin wire and yes, they are very
delicate. Twice during my first 3 hours of World Championship competition, I broke
the point off of my hook and had to get a fresh hook and leader rigged up. A good
idea when you are catching a lot of fish- I had 36 the first day, change your hooks
often to keep them very sharp when using ultralight hooks. One of the major factors
in the hooks breaking was the tough beaks that the mullets had. Their jaws are built
for pinching and plucking bits of food from between rocks-

The line was an entirely different story. When people say their line is as thin as
spider-web, they have never truly fished ultralight. The line we used was so thin
that one bump of the pole would snap it in half. The diameter of the line was .07
and your average 4 lb. line is .20 and falls outside of the ultralight category. This is
not to say that 4 lb. test is not light when dealing with cover, toothy fish or larger
fish, but for my money, .20 line is really thick line.

Why the need for ultralight equipment so extreme? I wanted to go fly fishing. No,
not with a giant hairy fly, but an actual fly larva. Midge fly larva or “bloodworm” were
the key bait in our competition. I said earlier the hook was thinner than an eyelash,
the bait was not much more thick than an eyelash. These tiny red larvae are delicate
to put on the hook. While I didn’t need a microscope- I did need to lean over and
get real close to put a couple on the hook. Getting the hook in without popping
their skin was key as a successful hookup meant that the bait would wiggle around
and the fish would respond. A midge fly larva looks much like a mosquito larva and
if you have never seen that- picture a half a pencil lead (ultralight).

While the average angler will never experience ultralight fishing, out there lies many
tactics and techniques that are available to you. One thing I did learn was to not get
settled in with my fishing knowledge and to always keep looking for new ways to go
fishing. The one thing I did learn is that sometimes if you fish heavy, you may be
tipping off the fish. When I fish near home in Chicago, I now fish light and some of
my biggest fish caught including a 9 lb. walleye were taken on 3 lb. line and size 14
hook- ultralight.

About The Author
Angler Magazine Writer- John Wilkins

http://www.midwestangler.com
john@midwestangler.com

John Wilkins has fished on the US Fishing Team
competing at the highest levels of fishing in Europe, Canada, China & the United
States. He has fished in 2 World Championships and has educated anglers on the
basics of fishing urban waters. His teacher is angling legend and Hall of Famer Mick
Thill. John’s top catch is 512 fish in a 4-hour competition and top finish is second in
the US Open Championships in 2000. Visit http://www.midwestangler.com for more
tips & info. as well as a complete listing of US Fishing Clubs- the best
place to learn is in a club!